Keeping your cool during the hot summer!


Everyone has issues with keeping cool during a hot summer.  Here are some inexpensive tricks I've learned that help me keep cool:



Traveling in cars is a hot thing, literally.  We've all seen the commercials saying not to leave your babies or pets in the car because it can get up to 120 degrees.

So what do we do?  We buy Visors and stick them across the windshield.  Does it help?  No, not really.  You want to know why?

Because you place the visor “INSIDE” the car.  To make matters worse, most of the popular visors people buy now have reflective coating on them.

You might say: “Ok, Kevin, why is it a bad thing to place a visor inside the car?”

Here's a why – the heat from the car is coming through the windshield.  The visors only protect the dashboard from the U.V. rays of the sun.  The visor doesn't do anything to stop the windshield from heating up.  Reflective visors, even simple white cardboard visors, cause a portion of the sunlight to travel backwards through the window.  So what you have is hot sunlight coming one way, and then going back out the other way.  With highly reflective visors, like aluminum foil visors, the intensity of the sunlight is equal or double that of the sunlight entering through the window.  So what you have in some instances, is the intensity of two to three suns traveling through the same windshield.

If you don't think it gets that hot, think about this:  I've cooked hotdogs by lining oatmeal boxes with aluminum foil, and placing the hot dogs in the middle on a spit, and just leaving them in the sun for 20 minutes for school projects.  In fact, one time I did it, the hotdogs BURNED!  It gets  HOT HOT HOT!  That's exactly what you're doing to your windshield.

How you stop it is a very simple method:  Get a tarp.  Buy a $5 and wrap it around the windshield.  It works. 

All you need is a tarp that is wide enough to cover the window, and be locked in when you shut the doors.  The cheap ones are painters' tarps which can be purchased at a home improvement warehouse (such as Lowes, Ace Hardware, Home Depot).  They are usually unpainted and tan in color.
(the companies mentioned in the above paragraph do not endorse and are not endorsed by this company)



Everyone knows about fans, but what did people do before fans?

Bowls of Ice/Cold Water sitting on the table.  Ice cools the air around it.  Ambient cool air helps lower the surrounding air temperature.  Make sure wherever you put the bowls of ice, that it's got a towel underneath – you don't want the condensation to mark any good furniture.  It's not a perfect solution, but it can help depending on where you place it.
The danger of a hot house can mean respiratory problems or worse, use all the available tricks in order to keep yourself cool for the summer.  The bowls of ice is also a great way to decorate a restaurant by incorporating them into a centerpiece.

Here are some other simple solutions:

If you use a swamp cooler, put some ice in the water basin of the swamp cooler.

Stick bowls of ice behind and in front of rotary fans.

Cold washcloths on your back.

Put T-Shirts in the fridge or freezer!



Everyone should know the importance of hydration, keeping water and cool drinks in your body.  What many people don't realize is that snacks that go with drinking don't help.


Fact: The more sodium you consume, the more water it takes to keep your body hydrated.  This isn't just a health issue regarding your heart, this is a health issue regarding your thirst.  When your body becomes dehydrated, you get thirsty., you also get tired, as your internal organs start to slow down in an effort to conserve what water is in your system.

Salt isn't just a seasoning, it shares qualities with low value acids.  Monosodium Glutamate, however, is a very dangerous type of glutamic acid.  MSG is part of the salt/sodium category of chemicals.  Because it's a single sodium compound, it latches onto and absorbs other atomic structures (specifically attracted to water).  Now, all sodium is attracted to water, but MSG specifically holds onto it like oh, say, “stink on a monkey”.  It burns through organic material in order to hold onto these water compounds.  That means that it erodes the structures of your arteries and veins.  MSG has been directly scientifically linked to causing severe migraines, visual impairment and slight increases in strokes.

While it's always a good idea to avoid consumption of MSG, specifically during hot days it's that much more important to leave Sodium Imbued foods in the store.  Check your food, make sure that you read the sodium levels.


Fact:  Alcohol requires water to process through your liver and kidneys.  Now, I'm not saying don't drink.  What I'm saying is for every bottle of beer you drink in a 12 hour period, you should drink a glass of water.


Fact:  Sugary drinks slows down your body's to process water.  Like alcohol, try to  drink at least a cup of water for every two cups of sodas you drink.  A cup of water is also a good compliment to a shake or ice cream.



    We all know watermelon, ice cream, gelatin recipes, sodas, shakes are fun ways to cool down.  Here are some recipes I use for light snacks throughout the summer:



There are all sorts of tricks to keep cool during the summer.  These are just a few of them.  Don't be afraid to try out main dishes that don't require cooking.  A good Gazpacho soup is filling and served cold.  Use a cook out grille when possible.  You may have to spend $6 on some coals, but it's worth it to keep your stove off.  Don't forget cold sandwiches (compared with even 20 years ago, I see so few advertisements or shows showing people eating cold sandwiches).  You don't always need to pretend that you have a professional cook in the kitchen.  Some days it's just as filling and satisfying to assemble a number of side dishes into a main course.  Large bowls of guacamole/cheese dip, fruit, maybe a light sandwich, ice cream are just some examples to keep cool without heating up the kitchen.

I hope this helps spark some ideas on how to cope with the heat for those of you having difficulty with the summer weather!


(C)2010 Kevin Conner

HI!

As you all know, I live in Colorado.  As a result a number of my friends and family travel by car.  In this futuristic age of 32 gigabyte thumb drives (once theorized only in superhero comics), and Cell Phone Watches (They exist!), it's hard to imagine that people can get lost, or have serious life threatening situations on a simple road trip.

It happens!  It happens a lot.

Even situations which turn out to just be mild, non life threatening, a survival kit may be just what you need to keep a piece of mind.

The problem with survival kits is that they are incredibly expensive, and they usually don't have everything you need!

I was upset when I browsed the stores for a first aid kit, and decided I need to make my own.  In order to do that I needed to break down what it is you need to survive.  Now as many of you may NOT know, my dad is an archaeologist, so bringing some sort of survival gear was always second nature.  It was never a kit so much as tools that just found their way into the truck and stayed there.  Thinking about this I broke down the main categories for survival:

* Food and Water
* Emergency medical items
* Something that can cut
* Fire for all seasons
* non-fire based warmth
* Items to make you visible - easy to find
* All purpose tools

Now I direct you to the photo I attached to this note.

In the photo you will see these items (right to left, down to up):
Kitchen Aid Heavy Duty Scissors (bottom right)
Magnetic Wand - basically it's a magnet on a metal rod that can extend/collapse
Emergency Whistle
Icy Hot long duration Hot Pack
Refillable Gas Lighter - this is an All Weather Model
7 Function Kids' Binoculars - includes compass, mirror, binoculars
LED Crank Light - no batteries needed
5 in 1 Multi-Tool - Pocket Size
Life + Gear brand Glow Red 4 function flashlight
Scotch brand Duct Tape
500 Foot Cotton Twine
All Purpose Taping Kit

This kit cost me $55.46, but you can cut some of the items out, halve the cost.

Most of the items I purchased while on sale.

Please take note - I do not make any money if you buy these items.  I list the brands not because I'm a company shill, but because I tried to find the cheapest versions of these items for you to buy.  You can buy any brand you wish.  Any brand will work.  This is just a reference to help you find what you need for this kit.

The only things you do NOT see on this immediate list are:  Food/Water, Disinfectant, Pepper Spray, Backpack, Painkillers (Aspirin and Ibuprofen), CPR/First Aid information cards

Water is always in my car at any given time.  I should warn you to stay away from plastic bottled water.  Plastic bottles cause medical issues, such as severe hormone alterations.  Women are especially vulnerable.  I suggest a stainless steel, acrylic or glass container for water.  Always keep it fresh (within 3-7 days).

Disinfectant.  Like food or opened water bottles, this can actually go bad.  Normally I don't carry this in my car, but if you're planning on hiking take some.  Fact is you only really need it if there's a chance people won't find you for days - i.e. a long road trip.  Otherwise just use dry bandages until you get help.

Pepper Spray and Mace are considered weapons.  Some areas, depending on local ordinances, force you to register in order to carry Spray or Mace.  Some police considered them concealed weapons.

Because my dad works out in the field he gets a new bottle of Pepper Spray about once or twice a year (some sprays lose their compression over time).  Bears are an issue out in the wild, and sometimes you need to spray one right in the nose.  Pepper Spray is always preferred since it's usually made with all natural ingredients.

Sometimes high pitched loud whistles keep the bears away.  So I bought those instead.  However, if you can get pepper spray, then get it.

A backpack is usually a good addition. I don't normally use or need one. Some people might find one handy. Since this isn't a backpack you need to use every day, a simple $3 cheapy pack is probably good enough.


Good Points For:
1. Aspirin is good for heart attacks because it thins the blood. DO USE ASPIRIN FOR THIS REASON! This can save a life.
2. If someone is in really bad pain or has a concussion Ibuprofen is good to help cut down swelling. DO USE IBUPROFEN FOR THIS REASON! This can save a life.

Bad Points:
My mom worked with a personal injury lawyer, and there are serious life threatening issues with medicating someone who has just sustained a major injury, these serious life threatening issues are:

* Aspirin thins the blood flow. If you are not suffering from a heart attack do NOT TAKE IT after sustaining either a concussion or have heavy bleeding. People who suffer from a concussion dramatically increase the chances of a stroke if they take aspirin immediately after. People who are bleeding out, will have thinned blood flow and experience an even more difficult attempt to clot and stop the blood flow.
* Ibuprofen is especially dangerous - not only does it reduce swelling (which also makes it hard to stop blood flow), but some people are allergic to it.

Finally Both of these medications are perishable. Extreme heat and cold can make them less effective over time. It is my suggestion you take the pain medication that you have in your medicine cabinet when you go out, rather than leave bottles in your car.

In either case - be very careful when you choose to self medicate. If you are near a busy road, and expect assistance in quick measure - then DO NOT SELF MEDICATE. The less drugs you pump into your system, the better and easier it is for EMTs to help you out.

If you are more than 1 hour away from the nearest emergency facility, and the person isn't suffering from any serious injuries, then Aspirin or Ibuprofen used in the right circumstances might be beneficial. But be very very careful in their use.

Suffering from a little headache rather than immediately treating it might actually save your life.


Now this blog post is a re-post of my facebook note and didn't mention First Aid cards, and when I posted it on facebook my friend actually emailed and reminded me about these First Aid cards by saying: "You should also tell people to keep their CPR card on them at all times and if they don't have one to get out there and get one!"

That was a great suggestion - but, I'll one up him:
http://www.first-aid-product.com/industrial/first-aid-guide.htm?OVRAW=first+aid+book&OVKEY=first+aid+book&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=47472803012&OVKWID=2691377512&OVCAMPGID=12346012&OVADGRPID=127894900&OVNDID=ND1&ysmwa=SKYnketDSRp7WsS8ssPyOOCdQgibXqUJZ19n3q70nViBGdvCvlmqLFX8kV-F8rCA

This is an AMA First Aid Guide. You can find them for as low as $0.45. Grab One if you don't have!

I haven taken my background for granted and completely forgot that some people don't have the same First Aid Training.  So I thought I'd repost his comment when I reposted this blog entry to my thelibrary.ninjanezumi.com website.



Let me explain each item I have:

Kitchen Aid Heavy Duty Scissors -
These things can cut tin cans.  They are better than knives because you have more control, and give you better leverage in most situations.  Also, cops won't try to arrest you for having scissors (like they can if they see you have a knife).  You can go ahead and grab a pocket knife, but for $5, I can cut anything with these heavy duty scissors that a $100 knife can cut.  Normally these retail between $8 and $12.  I bought mine for $5 on sale.  There are many brands of all purpose shears - so do some shopping around.  These are out of the package because I use them.

Magnetic Wand -
This thing is freaking amazing.  All it is - Magnet + Pointer Stick.  That's it!  It's the size of a pen.  You can buy them for between $1-$3.  I bought this one on sale for around $1.50  If you can't find them, try looking at a sewing shop, sporting goods store, hardware store.  They are small and usually on the counter with other "impulse buy items".

Children's Emergency Whistle -
Makes loud high pitched ear piercing noises.  DO NOT GIVE TO CHILDREN IF YOU VALUE YOUR EARS!  This particular model also has a compass.  High Pitched PAINFULLY LOUD Noises do two things: aid rescue workers/searchers and they also tend to ward off stray animals.  The Coghlan's Children's Emergency Whistle usually retails for about $4: http://www.rei.com/product/686104
The adult version retails for $11.
I bought the Children's Whistle when they were running a clearance sale for about $2 if memory serves me. Don't spend too much on these things.  The adult whistles only offers to take 7 more dollars from your wallet.  Children's version also offers a thermometer.

Icy Hot Pro Therapy Hot Pack -
These things keep you warm.  Traveling in a snowstorm?  Buy four packs.  Use them.  There are many brands of Hot Packs out there, and are usually used for climbers, or stadium events (when you know you'll be out in the cold).  These packs can give off intense heat for 3 hours depending on the manufacturer.  Truth is I have no idea how long the Icy Hot packs last, but I do know this packet I bought was $1.
What's it good for?  I'll tell you - slip it in your shoes or boots and you'll prevent yourself from getting frost bite on your toes if you're in snow and you need to search for help.
Again, look for hot packs that offer the best price for the money.

All Weather Refillable Lighter -
If you need to ask why you should buy one of these things you shouldn't be traveling.  All Purpose Lighters like this offer distance between you and the flame.  They protect the flame itself in difficult to light situations.  They are also best because you can store them and the fuel separately - preventing leaks or drying out.  This particular model cost me $2.99 that includes a refill.

7 Function Binoculars -
Mirrors aid search and rescue teams.  On a flat open area you can see a mirror from 7 miles away (I've known this fact for some time, look it up if you don't believe me).  Every single hiker I know has a mirror on them at all times.  They are critical tools in aiding search and rescue efforts.
This "Children's Model" is actually pretty good because it protects the mirror from direct impact.  It also offers cheap but working binoculars.  Again, you do not need to spend $500 on a single piece of emergency equipment for it to do its job.
This particular model also includes a compass and cost me $6.50  (I think it was on sale though for $4 when I bought it.  Same clearance rack as the emergency whistle).  I know you can buy them for less than $6.50.  I remember owning the same exact model 20 years ago so I know they haven't changed the function.  If it works - why fix it?

3 LED Crank Light -
This is an invaluable tool - a flashlight that works on your own "muscle".  I'm thinking of just using this around the house.
I bought mine on sale, believe it was around $15. Normal Price is $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Garrity-Power-Lite-Crank-Light/dp/B001L5TM1G
There's the amazon listing.  Incredibly invaluable, wonderful flashlight.

5 in 1 Multi Tool -
Cheaper than a swiss army knife.  Has all sorts of functions, from pliers, to wire cutters, Philips and flat head screw driver.
I bought mine at Target for $4.99

Life + Gear brand Glow Red 4 function flashlight -
This I found at Target for $4.99.  This little flashlight actually amazed me.  It has 4 functions:
1. Flash light
2. Bright Red Light - take a look at the shaft of the flash light (no jokes please), it is white and clear right?  Press the button twice and the entire shaft of the flashlight lights up a bright red.  While not quite as bright as a road flare, it's far safer to use, you can hold it, wave it around, or anchor it in a high location without fear of it setting fire.  Now Road Flares have their uses - but they can explode and cause fires.  I suggest buying one or two of these things.
They also come in green and blue, but the Red wavelength is what you need for rescue situations.  Still, it won't hurt if you buy multiple colors to make sure that search teams know something is up.
3. High Pitched Whistle
4. Blinking Red Light
(ok there's a 5th function where both the flashlight and the red light light up at the same time, but that's really a hybrid function).

Scotch Duct Tape -
You see a transparent one in this picture because it was on sale for $1.  Any duct tape will do.  If you don't know how duct tape can be useful then you must be an alien from another planet.  It's the most powerful tool on Earth.

Cotton Twine - 500 Feet
I have no idea how much this cost, but I found similar items on the net for $2, and I can't believe I paid more for that.  Cotton Twine is really pretty strong.  Give me enough leverage and I could use this to pick up a car.  The cotton twine I purchased is relatively thick.

Finally the big one -

All Purpose Taping Kit -
This particular kit cost $10.99.  Why did I buy it?  well, because it had literally 8 times as much taping and gauze related injury care than the $20 first aid gauze kit that I saw on sale at Target.  This $11 kit will probably last me until I'm 80.  That's how much is in there.  In fact, I hope I never have to use it.  Keep in mind even tape degrades over time, but, I know from experience that's a very long time.  I have some tape left over from my little league baseball days that works just fine (20 years).


If you buy everything on my list, the total expense will be:

10.99
2
1
4.99
4.99
15 (up to 5 more)
4 (up to 2.50 more)
2.99
1
2 (up to 2 more)
1.50 (up to 1.50 more)
5 (up to 3-7 more)
-----------------------

Minimum total - $55.46
Can cost up to - $73.46

Now like I said, you don't need everything on this list.  In fact, I suggest you can cut back to:

Kitchen Aid Heavy Duty Scissors (bottom right) -- $5-$12
Magnetic Wand - basically it's a magnet on a collapsible metal rod-- $1-$3
7 Function Kids' Binoculars - includes compass, mirror, binoculars -- $6.99
Life + Gear brand Glow Red 4 function flashlight -- $4.99
500 Foot Cotton Twine -- $2
All Purpose Taping Kit -- 10.99

For a total of $31.47

The expensive items  - Scissors, Binoculars, Flashlight and Taping Kit are primary concerns, and while you could easily abandon one or more of them, I suggest you try to keep the importance of those items in mind.

Compare this price of $31.47 to the first aid packs you see in Target which routinely sell for $40 and accomplish less than half of what those items above accomplish.

Put a backpack, canteen and pain killers in there and you increased the price by $6-8.

The following items are also incredibly useful, but some of them are seasonal and many are conditional uses that might never come up.

5 in 1 Multi-Tool - Pocket Size
Emergency Whistle
Icy Hot long duration Hot Pack
Refillable Gas Lighter - this is an All Weather Model
LED Crank Light - no batteries needed
Scotch brand Duct Tape

Whatever you do, though, don't forget to keep some water on hand at all times, at least two bottles.  If you run out of water, suck on a button to keep your saliva moving through your body.

I also learned to always travel with some sort of unsalted dry cracker, or bread.  Bread is great for long road trips.  Buy some fresh bread at the supermarket, usually $1, snack on it as you travel.  If you get stuck or in an emergency situation, you can use it to cut down the salt intake of any other snack foods you might have.

Always remember - the more salt in your food, the more water your body retains IN A BAD WAY.  The water doesn't process through your system as quickly or easily, thus making you dehydrated.

I hope this helps you plan for the future.  $56 (with tax) really isn't much to spend on emergency equipment, so I do suggest you look at the entire list I've presented.

Yes, I'm sure there are several items you'd add which I haven't included.  Knives, Pepper Spray, Thermal Blankets, etc... are all very useful.   I try to stay away from the weapon content though, mainly because of their limited use.  I always travel with some sort of clothing - pillow, blanket, and quite frankly, so does everyone I know.  So, I didn't include the blanket.

These items are more along the lines of items you'll always carry in your car.

May Mercury's blessing be upon your travels!


Without Wax,


Kevin Conner

Please forgive any grammar errors.  Also, all references to the color blue shall be read as <u>underlined text</u>

This system is the primary process for calculating irrational numbers using rational notation.

Unfortunately, I can't do it 100% the way it is in my book, because I use tables in my demonstrations.  If you want to see how I formatted it in my book you can check it out here:
http://thelibrary.ninjanezumi.com/journeytotokushi/cilantro.htm (table of contents link)
http://thelibrary.ninjanezumi.com/journeytotokushi/jtt_296a.htm (direct link)

This is simply the process (C)2006-2009 which can be used.  The process is altered depending on the irrational number desired.  I currently do not know of a simple way to reverse this type of equation.  However, I have no doubt that a reversal equation could be developed using a dedicated computational processor used to identify patterns of numbers and their markers.  Using this formula as a basis, I know that any irrational number could be "hacked" and a reverse equation could be developed to create rational notations for numbers such as pi or phi.

The End of the 'Deci'-mal Point

    The whole idea is that the decimal point is no longer capable of sustaining modern mathematics.  This goes hand in hand with the failure of the metric belief that base ten is a more accurate system.  The decimal routinely causes calculation errors in high end sciences, screwing with bases of three and four beyond recognition, and further damages the essence of extended mathematical functions.  As decimal stands for deca (ten), it therefore must have deca be removed from its name.
    The decimal point shall simply be renamed the Partition Point or Point for short (as it is already referred to in the vernacular) - and then every place on the right shall be considered a table with rows and columns.
Each column represents a shift, just as it would if it were a normal decimal.
Each row represents a new denomination.  Each block within the table, such as Row A Column B would have it's own denominator.

    Were already doing it with the decimal system, only each denominator is the same - a base of 10.  In this system, the numerator alters itself.  Since you multiply the numbers as you would any other formula, this would not affect or change the workings of mathematics.
    Now, in order to represent numbers that defy standard notation, we must also create skips, negative flips, and inserts.  These are numbers that causes the fractions to move by a variation determined by their sidebar, alternate between negative or positive depending on how many places left or right they possess, or insert themselves at a specific variation.  This skip, negative flip, or insert can be multiplied or subtracted or added as normal, and it will come out entirely correct, however, because it is presented in a finite notation, there is no requirement for rounding such numbers up or down.
    Another aspect is three dimensional variation of the number.  Where if you pretend to look at the table from the top, it will have a three dimensional form of a circle or say a spiraling form which would change how the numbers are added together (that's an easy way to visualize the skip or insert numbers to represent themselves)
    All of these are rational notations.  When you include the skip as an infinitesimal increasing or decreasing, it's still finite but when you "calculate it out" it becomes infinite representation.
    Just as you can multiply or divide 1/3rd, and you can't successfully represent .33333333333333333333, you can do the same with the skips/inserts.
    The value of the skips/inserts is dependent on their representation.

An example of such a notation in Process

Skip will be represented by a  (#)$.  # denotes the number of places before a skip is introduced.  $ is how many places the skip will skip.
Negative/Positive will be represented by -#/+# or vice versa +#/-#.  # denotes the number of places the number will be negative before switching to positive and vice versa.
Inserts will be represented by #*(#**/#***)@.  #* denotes the numerical value of the insert.  #** denotes the multiple of places which must be considered over the numerator value of #*** before the insert is inserted.  If #** is not evenly divided by #*** then it will not be inserted.  This form of notation is created on the chance that the insertion quality will be multiplied, divided, added or subtracted.  @ is the number of times the inserted number is inserted before increasing.  i.e.: for each time a number is inserted, it will insert the number twice into sequence, allowing for @ to be exponential representation, yet still calculable as a normal numerical value.

Negative Values will be represented as Blue text (if printed in color).

Pointalized Value being:
(a complete finite rational notational of an infinite irrational number)


(please take note, that in my written example the 1/3 and 3/17 -3/+4 are part of the same column place after the "point".  The other 1/3 (4)5 and 7/11 4(2/5)12 are in the second column to the right)

3 .!1/3________! 1/3  (4)5
___!3/17 -3/+4 ! 7/11 4(2/5)12


(please note I have tried to color the appropriate blue numbers, but it is very late)

3.00000000000000000000000000000000
0.33333333333333333333333333333333
0.17647058823529411764705882352941
0.03333000003333000003333000003333
0.06363636363463636363634636363636
(after the 12th time 4 is inserted it will be inserted as two fours 4 4.  Not to be confused with the number 44, as each four shall be multiplied and divided as a singular number)

*“Decimalized” value being:
(an incomplete notation of an irrational number)

3.25477010883658559464995251047363

(showing my work):

(please note I cannot highlight the carry overs like I did in my book)

0.33333333333333333333333333333333
0.17647058823529411764705882352941
0.03333000003333000003333000003333
0.06363636363463636363634636363636
**...1111......1111......1111.......1111.....1

** Carry Overs
*(providing my addition is correct)

The bolded and underlined 3 may or may not be a 3

    As clearly demonstrated, the finite representations are far more accurate.  As to the form of notation used, that could easily be in flux, and properly noted/determined by the paper using the appropriate notation.  What is important are the concepts of the skip, negative flips, insertions and exponential yet finite representations that are all easily modified through simple calculations without the need for insane (+1(+1(+1(+1......... incalculable, and irrational representation.

    It should further be noted that patterns of carry overs could be used as a piece of the puzzle to crack/decode the finite representation of known irrational numbers.  The above is a fictitious irrational number used for demonstrative purposes only, however, you can clearly see the implications of such a method of mathematics.

(C)2006 – 2009 Kevin Conner

Planetary Classification Proposal

Kevin Conner
(C)2009

Ignoring the IAU's politically motivated and unscientific classification of planets (which only applies to our solar system), I've decided to make my own proposal.
I invite anyone to try to shoot holes in my proposal.
My proposal - MINE - actually gives our solar system a maximum of 10 PRIME planets, although we would come out with several "Secondary" "rogue" and "non-solar" planets.
The first step to determining planetary status is determining 'what a planet is not' rather than 'what a planet is'.


A planet IS NOT:

1. Free roaming or otherwise lightly bound mass of particles/matter (nebula)
2. An active comet (as defined by the visual of icy tail, orbit, and a-symmetrical composite surface)
3. A star (a ball of gaseous particles undergoing nuclear fusion to create heat and energy)
4. An Asteroid (as defined by the a-symmetrical, rock conglomeration devoid of a core).
5. Unbound or otherwise irregular matter
6. Spacial Anomaly
7. *Open Ended Definition to be updated should other formations of stellar origin be discovered or defined.

A planet can be:

1. A satellite of any other stellar body (including a moon. This would allow for the definition: Secondary Planet, Primary Planet).
2. An unbound tightly bound mass which may or may not be symmetrical, providing it has a defined Core, through either gravitational pull or solid material (allowing for the definition of Rogue Planet)
3. A planet beyond the scope required to be heated by the nearest stellar body, or a planet orbiting a dead stellar body (allowing for the definition of Cold Planet)

Definitions unbefitting a planet

Dwarf/Giant Planets – Considering the fact that size is arbitrary, this definition is purely unscientific
Proto Planets – It may be a fact discovered later on that what we consider to be a developing planet has completed its development stage and provided life
Plutons – By the very logic of the Pluton classification, are we to call Earth (one of the smallest planet types in the universe) an Earthton?

Definitions befitting a Planet

Orbital Primary Categories

Orbital (i.e. a planet with a clear planar orbit, despite the orbital shape)
Rogue (a planet which despite personal movement, is not bound to any singular object such as an orbital or cluster planet)
Complete Rogue (a planet which isn't linked to a galaxy (let alone a solar system)
Cluster (a planet which despite personal movement or uniformity, is more of member of a group, i.e. clearly bound to multiple celestial entities, but this binding isn't as planar as an Orbital planet).

Orbital Locality Categories

Primary (a planet which orbits a solar entity within a radius in such that it directly affects the gravity/orbit of more than one other Solar Object or the Sun itself, or is in-between the lineup of other such planets fitting this description. i.e. this would be a main System Planet)
Non-Solar (a planet which falls outside of the solar definition, in that it does not directly affect one or more Solar Objects, and is not followed by a planet fitting the Primary description)
Secondary (a planet which orbits another planet - this would actually qualify Io as a planet. Current debates on Titan as well)

Orbital Nature

Stable Orbit (a planet with a stable orbit is one which repeats its orbit with predictability, regardless of the shape or length of orbit)
Instable Orbit (a planet which orbit changes erratically or otherwise routinely alters its path outside of a simple repetitive predictability. A planet which does a figure 8 would be stable, but a planet which does all sorts of shifts in speed and direction is instable)
Stable Rotation (a planet with a consistent smooth rotational speed and axis, regardless of whether or not it speeds up or slows down over an extended period of time, or flips axis)
Instable Rotation (a planet whose rotation and axis will speed up, slow down, and change position without cause, in an irrational, instable manner that causes internal damage or otherwise severe and drastic changes in conditions which cannot be compensated by the planets natural structure).

Orbital Sub Categories

Complimentary (A planet smaller in size which essentially affects only one other solar planet in a helpful, non destructive fashion, yet is incapable of being classified as a Primary Planet – i.e. the lesser of two masses locked into geosynchronous rotation or orbit)
Contrary (a planet which has a direct negative/conflicting effect on another planetary object)

Quality Categories

Living Planet (a planet which is active in one of the following ways: core, rotation, shifting plates. This definition has no link to actual living organisms or orbital nature)
Dead Planet (a planet which is completely inactive in means of core, plates, rotation, etc... This definition has no link to actual living organisms or orbital nature)
Dormant (a dead planet which can through minimal means be brought from a seemingly dead status, or near dead status, to a fully active status. This definition has no link to actual living organisms or orbital nature)